I hope everyone had a wonderful Valentine’s weekend! I indulged in some chocolate and some cozy downtime, but still squeezed in a little more progress to share for our Sew-Along.
Continuing from last week, we will put the back lining pieces together with a few pieces of boning, and also the back waist “bra” closure. Remember, this is the final lining layer that goes against the skin. After sewing in the side seams and back waist closure, this would be an excellent time to check the fit on your wearer. This layer is meant to be tighter than the other outer layers of actual dress. Even with all the boning in this lining layer, there will still be an opportunity to adjust the fit before going forward. Usually by this stage you already have a pretty good fit from having fine-tuned the muslin mock-up we did… but if you need to take in the side seams or plan for a tighter fit on the back closure panel, It’s still very accessible.
Here is the assembly of the back lining panels, very much the same as what we did with the front lining panels. Remember, for this layer there is NO boning in the actual seams, just a double topstiching (in my case), but if you choose you can just have plain seams. I just like the double topstiching because it holds the seams down flat and adds a little structure…. plus I think it looks expensive.
For the middle layer of the structure, that is where the boning will go in all the princess seams. My reasoning for this is because you have an “out” for forgiveness if sewing the boning into these seams is not perfect looking because you will not see this layer at all. It is no fun at all trying to sew the boning into the princess seams of the exposed lining layer where you will see the topstiching, and the pressure for it to look perfect. So I “fake” it on the lining layer with my very tiny and fine “perfect” double topstitching in those exposed princess seams, and the boning on the inner layer is just a hidden utilitarian function.
The back waist “bra” closure panel is created by merging the Center Back and Side Back panels together, eliminating the back princess seam. It will go from the waist, and about 1″ away from the top edge.
Next, we want to find at lease two locations where we can place some boning that will NOT be overlapping the other boning placements on the lining and interlining (middle) layer.
Next I cut out two layers of lining (in my case silk duchess satin) and one layer of muslin for interlining. You don’t have to use what I’m using, you can choose from variety of fabrications to your preference, including power mesh (for more give and stretch), organza with lace (if you want something pretty and sheer like lingerie but strong), it could be coutil, etc. The main thing is that you want it to be a nice contoured fit and very comfortable yet strong.
This time, I’m using a wider boning, and attaching it to the cotton interlining… but you could also do the exposed topstitching to the lining layers if you prefer.
The muslin interlining with the boning is sandwiched inside of the lining fabrics, and clean finished at the upper and lower edge. I understitch the upper edge on the inside. This back closure panel will be attached at the side seams. Your next step will be to baste the side seams to your front panels and do a fitting to check for any desired changes.
There are a variety of choices you can consider for how to fasten your back closure panels together. It may depend on how much strength you need for your particular fit. They can be:
- Separating zipper
- Hook and eye tapes
- Metal grommets for lacing
- Self-fabric loops for lacing
Another idea I think is very lovely is to embroidery a monogram on the back closure or other pretty embroideries or decoration. It will make for a beautiful photo op as the bride is being dressed and makes for a very special detail.
That’s it for this week!
Categories: Sew-Along: Strapless Bustier