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Creating a waist facing pattern for pants or skirt.

If you would like to convert a pant or skirt pattern from having a regular waistband to instead having no waistband, this mini-tutorial shows how you can draft a “waist facing” to clean finish the top of your pant/skirt.

Let’s start with a basic shorts pattern.

 

Now lets offset a line, say 1.5″ from the top edge.  In this case, my seam allowance is included in this particular pattern, but you can also work with a pattern that has no seam allowance and add it when you are finished with the pattern manipulation steps.

 

Now lets trim off everything from that line down.

 

The process of eliminating the pleats for the front waist will be the same as how we eliminate the darts of the back waist.  So let’s just focus on the back waist.  Now let’s “erase” the back dart allowance at the waistline.

 

Now let’s join the darts together to eliminate them.

Now let’s smooth out those angular points at the top of the eliminated darts.

 

Now let’s offset that new curved upper line by the same 1.5″ that we originally used, so the lower legs of the eliminated darts are also smoothed out.

 

Let’s clean it up and keep the original dart positions to now be “notches” so we can easily match the facing to the self pant pieces.

 

In order for your facing to “sit within” the pant neatly, you may want to consider shaving off 1/16ths of an inch from the vertical seam edges.  This way it is just a tiny bit smaller and reduces bulk and fighting for the same space.

Categories:   Patternmaking

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